Think Surabaya is just a modern, bustling business hub? Think again.
Beyond the traffic lies a historic boulevard waiting to tell its story.
Many know Darmo Boulevard as a main road lined with shady trees. Yet, few know the rich history hidden beneath its canopy.
Today, we are uncovering those secrets on a walking tour with Bersukaria.
Perpustakaan Bank Indonesia
Our journey back in time starts at the Bank Indonesia Library. Built in 1921, this historic landmark has worn many faces. It served as a residence and a museum before welcoming readers.
The building showcases a striking blend of Javanese and classic Dutch styles. Four striking pillars frame the entrance, standing on a tiled stone veranda.
Above them, a deep, tiered roof shelters an ornate circular stained glass window. This beautiful design naturally aids ventilation while adding immediate visual intrigue.
Darmo Boulevard
As Surabaya’s first planned housing complex, Darmo Boulevard features exceptionally wide roads. Lush, century-old trees frame the entire street.
The name Darmo actually evolves from the ancient word Dharma. Dharma translates directly to “Good Deeds”—the exact opposite of Karma.
Every Sunday, the city closes this historic road to all vehicle traffic. Darmo Boulevard transforms into a vibrant hub where locals gather and exercise. It is the perfect place to sample street food or enjoy the fresh morning.
Makam Ki Ageng Bungkul
The sacred Tomb of Ki Ageng Bungkul proves how ancient this neighborhood truly is. Ki Ageng Bungkul was a revered nobleman from the Majapahit Kingdom in the 1400s.
He worked alongside Sunan Ampel, one of the legendary Wali Songo (Nine Saints). Together, they passionately spread Islam throughout the regional kingdom.
His final resting place has now evolved into a peaceful local mosque. Surrounding his main tomb, you will find several smaller graves of his disciples.
Free Catholic Church of St. Bonifacius
Most people connect Catholicism directly to the strict authority of the Vatican. However, the Church of St. Bonifacius deliberately chooses a completely independent path. It identifies as a Free Church while still practicing traditional Catholic theology.
The building stands proudly with a smooth, clean cream facade under a steep tiled roof. A tall, slender Christian cross rises directly from the peak of its front gable.
We asked our keeper of the church to explain the core difference with the Vatican. “Here, the priests and popes are allowed to marry,” he explained.
Sanggar Penerangan Theosofi
Imagine believing in a higher, absolute being without following a traditional religion. If that resonates with you, Theosophy might offer the answers you seek.
In Surabaya, this philosophical movement has thrived since 1908 at Sanggar Penerangan, just next to St. Bonifacius Church.
The building boasts classic Dutch colonial architecture. A large blue sign on the gate marks the entrance to this historic sanctuary.
Rumah Sakit Darmo
Our next historic stop brings us to the iconic Darmo Hospital
The original 1921 structure stands beautifully preserved right at the center. A classic, sweeping red-tiled roof crowns the brilliant white colonial facade.
Throughout its long history, Darmo Hospital frequently changed its core functions. It served as a tense internment camp and a strategic military outpost.
Sekolah Santa Maria
Our historical walk next brings us past the historic Santa Maria School. A vintage plaque mounted at the front gate reads: Zusters Ursulinen. Anno 1922, the exact year the Ursuline nuns began operating here.
Massive, deep-set windows decorate the entire front of the school facade. This grand architectural feature extends seamlessly to the quiet monastery next door.
Graha Wismilak and Monumen Perjuangan Polri
At the very end of Jalan Darmo, a majestic building faces the intersection. This towering, beautiful structure is known today as Graha Wismilak.
Before becoming a modern office, it served as the base for the Polisi Istimewa. This elite unit was the direct historical precursor to Indonesia’s modern Brimob.
Directly across the street, a striking stone monument rises toward the sky. It honors the brave Polisi Istimewa who sacrificed everything for Indonesian independence.
We paid our respects to the names carved in stone before concluding our walk.