Komodo Island has long reigned as one of Indonesia’s premier scuba diving destinations. Imagine plunging into its crystal-clear waters, where encounters with majestic manta rays, sleek sharks, and graceful sea turtles are not just possibilities, but thrilling realities. Thanks to recent renovations and the expansion of Labuan Bajo’s airport, this remote paradise has become more accessible than ever, even helping to drive down prices for adventurers. So, when the stars finally aligned at work and at home, Grace and I eagerly departed Jakarta, ready to fulfill two lifelong ambitions: to dive among Komodo’s vibrant reefs and to witness the awe-inspiring Komodo Dragons in their natural habitat.

From Labuan Bajo, the bustling gateway where our flight landed and all voyages into Komodo National Park begin, we boarded our sturdy wooden ship, APIK. Our guide, Sandro, then whisked Grace and me away on a smaller motorboat to meet the rest of our crew for the next three days. We were joined by a fascinating mix of fellow adventurers: Olivia, a seasoned global traveler on an eastward leg of her round-the-world journey; Tere and Matt, seizing a well-deserved short break from their demanding careers; and Anna and Simon, celebrating their pre-honeymoon escape to the stunning Komodo archipelago.

Our lively chatter instantly hushed as APIK pulled away from the bustling port, replaced by an overwhelming sense of awe at the majestic nature unfolding around us. Island after emerald island of Komodo National Park stretched in an endless procession, sharply defined against the bright, clear horizon. A rare sight in the typically arid climate around Komodo, the normally barren landscape was now vibrant with green scenery, a gift from the recent months’ rain. Beneath our sturdy vessel, the water lay perfectly calm and crystalline, its glassy surface broken only by the gentle ripple of our ship’s slow, deliberate movement. This serene silence, however, was soon pleasantly interrupted as Sandro gathered us to brief us on our exciting itinerary and introduce the dedicated ship crew who would be our companions on this incredible adventure.

After a two-hour journey, the anticipation was palpable as we geared up for our much-awaited first dive at Siaba Besar. The loud roaring of the boat engine and the gushing wind quickly faded, replaced by the rhythmic whoosh of our own bubbles as we descended into an entirely different world beneath the surface. There, we “flew” effortlessly through the crystal-clear water, gliding above an endless tapestry of vibrant corals. Schools of fish danced around us, seemingly oblivious to our presence, their lives unfolding in a mesmerizing, underwater ballet.

Our second dive plunged us directly into the heart of the action at Manta Point, a renowned cleaning station. Here, powerful underwater currents immediately began to buffet us, forcing us to scramble and fight for our bearings. We had barely caught our breath, finding a precarious refuge from the relentless surge behind a gentle slope, when the first magnificent manta ray glided into view. It moved with astonishing grace, its sheer size completely unaffected by the very currents that tossed us around, its immense wings undulating with the fluidity of a seasoned dancer. It had arrived to receive its natural cleaning. As we gently drifted further along, another colossal manta appeared, then another. Then, as the dive neared its end, a serene sea turtle gracefully swam between us, heading out towards the vast open ocean. By the time our second dive concluded, we had been privileged to witness at least four of these incredible creatures in their natural, awe-inspiring ballet.

As the sun began its majestic descent, painting the sky with fiery hues, our boat smoothly sailed towards its tranquil overnight anchorage. Cleaned up and deliciously hungry, we settled onto the deck, the day’s exhilaration still buzzing, eagerly awaiting dinner. We couldn’t stop reliving every moment of our incredible dives, comparing photos and sharing our favorite underwater encounters. Under the vast expanse of the starlit sky, a simple yet delicious dinner prepared by the attentive crew was more than enough to replenish our spent energy. Far in the distance, a dark, imposing landmass began to emerge from the dim starlight – our destination. Tomorrow, we would set foot on Komodo Island, the very place where the ancient, formidable Komodo Dragons still roam freely, a thrilling thought that filled us with eager anticipation for the new day. We are going to meet the real locals: Komodo Dragon